Pattern Draping: Preparation

15Feb10

Draping a basic fitted front bodice is not difficult. The pattern draping method shown here can end up being a quick way to make a basic fitted bodice pattern.

To drape a basic bodice on a dress form you will need the following materials:

Access to a dress form –ideally one made specifically for draping purposes.
Thin black tape – for taping style and reference lines on your form
White or pale colored muslin fabric – approx. 24” (61cm) by 14” (36cm)
Pins
Sewing Scissors

The two most important things to remember when draping any style on a dress form are: 1) accurately tape style and reference lines, 2) control your grain lines.

Once the grain lines have been established at the centre front and across the bust, you begin to smooth the fabric over the dress form. Before you start draping the front bodice pattern you must prepare your dress form and your fabric.

Tape the dress form
Check Tape measurements for accuracy
Prepare the muslin fabric (24” by 14”)
Iron centre front (turn back fabric approx. one inch)
Press a horizontal crease across the bustline

: Tape the Dress Form

: Taped Dress Form Side View

: Armhole Circumfrence Measures 16 5/8″ (42.7cm)

: Prepare Fabric 24 by 14 inches, Iron Horizontal Crease

Tape around the bust, waist and hips. Establish the side seam, shoulder seams and centre front and centre back lines. Tape armhole and neck curves. The distance from the centre front to the bust apex is approximately 7 1/8 inches (9 cm). For reference, I have taped two rows of black tape, each 9 cm from the centre front.

The armhole measures 16 5/8 inches (42,7 cm) in circumference. The armhole width is 4 3/8 inches (11cm) and the armhole depth if 5 1/2 – 6 inches (14-15.5 cm).

The horizontal crease is used as a reference for the bustline of your bodice. The bodice draping method will be demonstrated in a following post.

Additional information about pattern draping can be viewed at the following link: http://drapingteacher.wordpress.com/

Like this:

Be the first to like this post.

Filed under: Fashion Design, Pattern Draping | 2 Comments
Tags: Draping Method, Front Bodice

2 Responses to “Pattern Draping: Preparation”

Feed for this Entry Trackback Address

1 Lorilee Lucas on January 24, 2011 said:

I have been looking all over for that black styling tape for draping. I’m not interested in the sticky back version…more of the shoelace type woven which is thick enough to feel through your fabric. Any idea 1) what the proper name for it is? 2) where I can find it?

Much appreciated

Reply
- 2 scarletblackfashion on January 25, 2011 said:
  
  Hi Lorilee:
  I use black twill tape and often substitute any inexpensive tape that I can find. Some tapes curve a bit easier than others. I look for tape that is 1/4″ or less wide but 1/8″ seems too narrow for me. I found some inexpensive tape at Dressew in Vancouver. If you are really desperate you might try satin ribbon as this is easy to find. This ribbon does not curve nicely but sewing and craft stores always have it – and it is inexpensive. I paid 19 cents a metre for the tape I am currently using. I sometimes use other colors depending on my design. For example, I taped the basic style lines of my form in black, draped a fitted blouse and am using purple tape to help drape the collar shape.
  
  Reply